The Amok Draumr 5.0 Hammock
In my initial survey of hammocks for backpacking, I gave short shrift to the Amok Draumr 5.0, based on a couple of reviews I had read. I purchased a Haven XL Hammock Tent, and liked it a lot. It had its pros and cons, but I thought it would work for me with some modifications. I posted a detailed review a few days ago, and shared it on Facebook in some Idaho hiking groups. This is a link to my review:
The Haven Hammock Tent
Several of the comments on FB about the Amok Draumr led me to go take a closer look at their website and to read/watch many more reviews. I decided that it looked promising and that I had dismissed it too quickly, so I decided to give it a try. The Haven has a 60-day return period, the Onewind tarp 30 days, and the Amok 30 days. I knew I would still be well within the return windows for all products, so I could keep the hammock that seemed the best for me, and return the other one.
The tree straps are proprietary, and specific to the Amok. They wrap around the tree through a loop just like others I've seen, but there are no loops in the strap for attaching carabiners. The end of the strap has a metal tab that fits into a little metal bracket on the hammock, forming an adjustable buckle. The tree straps are identical to each other, but the hammock ridgeline is labeled prominently with "Port" (red) and "Starboard" (green) to differentiate which end of the sleeping platform is the head and which is the foot. The ends of the tree straps have velcro loops for holding them neatly coiled when not in use. I also found these useful as finger loops to pull the strap tighter. I don't know if it was intended to be used this way, but it works. (Later edit: This was a bad idea. The velcro loops are not strong enough for this, and now I have a repair job to do.)
The tarp has its own stuff sack, and includes six stakes that are contained in a velcro-closure pocket. Guy lines were already attached and ready to use (they just needed to be uncoiled, which did take a moment as they were tightly wound). Each attachment point on the tarp also has a velcro loop for coiling up loose guyline, a very nice feature. The guylines at the ends of the ridgeline have small snap links for attaching to the tree straps or other attachment point. These are also color coded red/green, because the tarp is asymmetrical to fit the way the hammock hangs - the foot end is longer than the head end. One more point - the tarp includes a tube of seam sealant, a brush, and instructions. Having read the information on the website, I expected to have to seal the tarp before using it. But the written instructions that came with the tarp said that this is just a precaution because "a small percentage" of their tarps might leak a small amount in heavy rain. The instructions recommend trying the tarp out in the backyard first to see if sealing the seam is necessary. I am certain that I will seal the seam eventually, but I took this advice and proceeded to go outside to set it all up for the first time. (Later edit: I read the instructions, watched the video, and sealed the seam on the tarp. Better safe than sorry.)
I started to set up the Amok in the same spot I had used for the Haven. I very quickly learned that because of the proprietary connector, there is a definite limit to the distance between trees you can use. In this case, they were too far apart by several feet. So I found a couple different trees. I paced off about seven paces (my paces are 30" each) as the maximum distance possible. This is also a function of the diameter of the tree trunks, and these are big trees. With smaller trees you'd gain some additional reach. And of course, you could also just get a set of generic tree straps and carabiners to use as extensions (the ones that came with the Haven would work great). I don't know if this will be an issue or not, as I have not yet gone out camping with a hammock. I may take some along the first time I go; better safe than sorry. (This philosophy is why I am not an ultralight backpacker, lol).
Inserting the pad into the hammock was interesting. The hammock has a zippered pocket to hold the pad in place. Because the hammock was limp and the pocket is fairly tight, it took me a minute to figure out the best way to get it in. It turned out that slipping the hammock pocket over the top edge of the pad, and then pulling most of the material over the end of the pad before sliding it all the way in was much better than trying to slide the whole pad into the pocket. I got a chance to practice this twice, because I had inserted the pad foot-end first. It doesn't really make a difference, but at the head end of the pad pocket there is an opening to give you access to the valve on the pad, which turns out to be very handy if you want to add or release air once it's set up. When I saw that, I took the pad out and put it in again the right way.
The last step in setting up the hammock was to insert the poles in the head and foot ends. The hammock has what they call "stick pockets", where you insert a conveniently-sized stick to prop it up and give more foot- and headroom. They sell a set of two lightweight poles for this purpose as well, and I had bought a set.
Once I had the hammock set up, I set up the tarp. It was very easy to just clip the color coded mini-carabiners to the tree straps, then stake out the guy lines. The guy lines have very effective plastic tighteners. I was not very impressed with the stakes that come with it, however. They are a bit short, and are a simple piece of angled aluminum. The notch in the stakes to hold the rope is on the wrong side, so that rather than the angle digging in like a little shovel and holding the stake in place, the corner is facing the tarp like a wedge. I just can't imagine them holding well under stress. I replaced them with MSR Groundhog stakes for the next night, and will use those instead of the ones that came with it.
One of the many videos I had watched had emphasized the desirability of setting up the tarp so that there was enough room to stand upright underneath, and I agree with this. The difficulty is that this means the hammock also has to be a certain height off the ground, which may be too high. I later came to the conclusion that a separate line around the tree for the tarp would be desirable, so that the hammock height and the tarp height could be adjusted independently. This would also solve the main challenge of setting up this hammock in bad weather, when you'd want to have the tarp set up first before getting the hammock out. Until the hammock is attached to the buckles, there is no tension on the tree straps, and so nothing to keep the tarp taut while you set up the hammock underneath. Next time I will run a length of parachute cord around the trees and attach the tarp to them, then set up the hammock underneath. (Later edit: This worked very well.) (Even later edit: The written instructions showed how to loop the tarp guyline around the tree and clip it to itself, an even simpler solution that I hadn’t thought of. The videos I had seen showed the tarp carabiners clipped to the tree strap. Since I always carry a “rope bag” with assorted lengths of parachute cord, I can always use my original idea if the guylines are too short).
The tarp guylines are supposed to be reflective, but were much less visible than others I have seen. They seemed to show up OK under white light, but because I use the red light on my headlamp to preserve my night vision, whatever reflector they use on the guy lines was nearly invisible. Fortunately there was a full moon a lot of the time.
Because it was a clear night, I left the front three guy lines unhooked, and flipped the front of the tarp over the ridge so that I could sleep with a clear view of the night sky.
Draumr 5.0 ready for sleeping. You can see the pole propping up the foot end. There is one at the head end as well.
My first night sleeping in the Amok was an adventure in itself. I dressed exactly the same as I had for my nights out in the Haven (long underwear, socks & down booties, polypro wristovers, and a fleece cap), but because the temperature never got below about 22°F, it was not nearly the stress test of insulation value that my nights in the Haven had been. Nonetheless, it was cold enough that I didn't want to stay exposed for long as I got in and out of the hammock.
I had several ultralight carabiners as well as the stuff sacks I normally use for pillows. I had put the carabiners around various straps inside the hammock where it seemed they'd be secure and easy to reach, intending to clip the sacks to them when they were in use. I also had planned what would go in the mesh pockets on either side.
Climbing into the Amok is an athletic event. I had watched several videos about using it, each of which discussed different techniques for getting in and out. The company also produced this one:
How to get into and out of the Amok Draumr
This video has several very useful suggestions that helped me a lot (eventually). The Amok employees make it look very easy, and once you get the hang of it, it's not that hard. But note that in the video, the hammock is completely empty (no sleeping bag or other gear), and it also has no sticks or poles propping up the ends. For my first night, I never really got the "hang of it", so to speak. My entrances and exits from the hammock exhibited all the grace and elegance of an elephant on ice skates, despite my best efforts. One thing they said in one of these videos might have been the most valuable piece of advice I'd heard, and it came back to me several times in the night: "Trust the hammock". As you shift around inside it, sometimes it feels like it's about to pitch you right out one way or the other. It never actually did (except when I was trying to get out). So despite all the swinging around, it was very secure, once I was in it.
Climbing in usually took me several tries, each time rearranging all the stuff that had slid down to the foot end when I (unintentionally) flipped the hammock up to a vertical position. When I finally managed to get in and stay in, I'd spend several minutes wiggling around, trying to get the sleeping bag and other stuff rearranged without sliding back down to the foot end and finding myself standing up. Once again, the next morning I felt like I'd done about a thousand sit-ups.
Climbing out never took me more than one try, but I also never ended up quite where I wanted to be. No matter what I tried to do or where I held on, I'd end up dumping myself out onto my hands and knees or else onto my rear end. At least the space blanket I'd left out as a kind of "front porch" when climbing in saved me from sitting in the snow. 🤣
I had taken off my boots and put on down booties before climbing in, but I wanted to try undressing for bed while in the hammock. This has always been my technique for minimizing heat loss and maximizing comfort. I had been unable to do it at all in the Haven. In the Amok I did manage to do it, but it was tricky because every motion of any body part changes the center of gravity and tilts the hammock. (Fast forward - the second night I got undressed outside the hammock, then climbed in. This proved to be much easier, and didn't take long enough for me to lose any significant amount of body heat).
I had left my boots outside covered with a stuff sack and weighing down one end of the space blanket, with my day pack weighing down the other end. I put my pants in one stuff sack and my wool shirt in another, and snapped them into carabiners so they could lay suspended on either side of me. My iPad (with my glasses) went in the end pocket on the right side, opposite the bug net pocket, my phone into one of the mesh pockets, and few small odds and ends in the Draumer stuff sack that was now clipped in place inside. A couple of things (e.g. a pair of gloves) I just tucked underneath the material on either side, where the straps are attached. This material forms a sort of continuous pocket all up and down each side of the sleeping platform. My headlamp went into the Nalgene bottle pocket when it wasn't on my head.
Nearly every one of these decisions turned out to be a mistake.
Because my entrances and exits were so ungainly, anything that was not tied down either slid around (best case) or got ejected out into the snow. This included my phone, which I had to retrieve more than once after one of my America's-Funniest-Home-Videos-worthy attempts to get into or out of the hammock.
Once I got situated inside and settled down to sleep, I discovered that the stuff sacks that had seemed so well-situated before now slid around in all directions, depending on which way the hammock leaned. If I reached to move one out from under one part of me, that changed the center of gravity and another one would slide into place from the other side. I finally solved this by just flipping them out over the edge of the Amok and letting them dangle. I secured the phone by putting it into the Nalgene bottle pocket, which is much deeper than the mesh pockets on the sides.
This all worked fine until I had to get up several times through the night. After my invariably ignominious exit, my folded parka-pillow and the sleeping bag would wind up in a heap at the foot end of the now-vertical Amok. So I'd rearrange them, take care of business, and then try to get back in. I rarely got in on the first attempt, so they'd end up at the bottom again. Lather, rinse, repeat. I did finally figure this all out on the second night, but my first night in the Amok brought this to mind:
Pick Yourself Up
Achieving a stable sleep position is a combination of setting up the Amok properly, and then getting yourself properly positioned inside it. While trying to go to sleep, I noticed that no matter what I did or how I wiggled around, I was always leaning (and thus sliding) a little to the left. I got out and adjusted the main support straps a couple of times, loosening the right one and tightening the left, but it had no discernible effect. I finally realized that the problem was the height of the straps on the trees. Although I had reached up and put them on the trees at exactly the same height with respect to my reach, the ground was uneven, and the left side was actually a few inches lower with respect to the earth, and gravity was having its effect. With some difficulty due to the Amok being loaded with my stuff, I adjusted the position of the straps on the trees. By standing at the foot end of the hammock and looking at the ridgeline, I could determine when it was (finally) horizontal. When I got back in after that, it felt level and I had no problem staying centered on the pad left-to-right. Staying centered front-to-back simply requires grasping the center support fabric on each side and pulling/pushing yourself until you're in the right position to be balanced and horizontal.
Aside from all of this "discovery learning" about how to use the hammock, I was very comfortable and warm in the intervals when I did get settled in to sleep. Sometimes I felt a little gentle rocking, but mostly it was just a stable, warm, comfortable bed, and I slept very well.
In the morning, I decided to put the Amok into its chair configuration and enjoy a cup of hot tea while watching the sunrise. This involves adjusting two pairs of straps, one in the middle to pull it up under your knees, and another at the top to pull the head end up and forward to form the back support. They each have a generous finger loop on the ends to aid in adjustment. The easiest way to tighten them up is to use two hands: one hand pulls the end of the strap with the loop away from the buckle while the other hand pulls the other side of the strap to relieve tension and help feed it into the buckle. Once you get the hang of it, it's not hard to just tighten them right up. There's a little resistance to bending the pad (actually an air mattress) at the knees, as it is very rigid to provide a stable sleep platform. I reached up to the valve and released a little air, which made it fold into the chair much more easily.
If the hammock is too high off the ground, sitting forward in the chair will just make it behave like a swing. But if you adjust the height just right, you can get it so your feet will contact the ground while you're still inside, and it becomes a very stable chair, more like a porch swing. Once I had the hammock in this position, I put on my wool shirt and down vest, keeping the rest of myself in the sleeping bag. Then I could reach forward onto the ground and set up an Esbit stove to heat water. This time I had my spice tea mix instead of tea bags, so I was able to sit back in my chair warmly wrapped in the sleeping bag and watch the sunrise while sipping the hot, sweet drink, warming my hands on the cup. Even though I was just in my own back yard, it was easy to imagine being on the shore of an alpine lake or overlooking a mountain valley. Those are the moments that make it all worthwhile.
With the hammock at the correct height, you can brace your feet on the ground while in "chair mode", then reach down to heat water or retrieve gear from your pack.
The ridgeline is a convenient place to hang things while you work with other things. Too much moving around makes it a bit risky to hang the cup like this when it's full, though.
A quiet, peaceful sunrise while warmly ensconced in my sleeping bag and reclining chair with a hot drink.
For my second night out, the temperature was supposed to be about the same but there was snow in the forecast, so I left the tarp all the way up rather than half open. I often go to sleep in the open even under those conditions, and just jump up and secure the roof when I need it. But given my experiences the first night, I didn't really want to wake up with snowflakes on my nose, then dump myself and everything else out of the hammock while trying to get out to put up the tarp. As it turned out, my lack of confidence was unjustified.
This time, instead of securing things to various straps using the carabiners, I clipped everything that was not secured in a pocket onto the ridgeline. This not only made it easy to find, but also ensured that it would not affect the balance of the hammock. When I found that the day pack had a tendency to migrate toward the middle, I secured its carabiner to the side with a short cord. I also rigged a length of parachute cord across the top (head) end, and folded my parka-pillow around it. This way, when I up-ended the hammock getting in or out, at least the parka-pillow would stay more-or-less in place.
Getting into the Amok the second night, I decided to undress first. This was much easier and quicker. Holding onto the ridgeline with one hand gives excellent support for stability, and I had everything stowed away in short order. I folded the space blanket and stowed it as well, rather than leave it out on the ground.
The technique I finally adopted for getting in was to stand on one side with my back to the Amok, and reach over behind me to grasp the center support fabric. Then I'd straddle the foot end, pulling it forward between my legs with the free hand while keeping it as nearly horizontal as possible, until I could reach over and grasp the support fabric on the other side. With a firm grasp on the support fabric on both sides, I then sort of gently hopped up and backwards while pulling forward with my hands, trying to get my rear end as far in as possible. I got a little better at this every time I did it.
To get out of the hammock, I found it best to grasp the support fabric on each side, then put my feet out to either side of the foot end, then bend my knees and pull my feet back towards the center line. I would lean forward a bit to get my feet securely on the ground as far underneath me as possible, then let go with one hand, reach up and grab/hook my arm around the front side of the ridgeline, and use it as a support to lift myself up while standing up out of the hammock.
In contrast to my experience the first night, on the second night I never once dumped myself on the ground or flipped the hammock into the vertical position while getting in or out. If the first night was like the "Pick Me Up" video, the second night felt more like this:
What I've Learned
I also used the pockets differently, and never launched anything out onto the ground. The mesh pocket held a pair of gloves, and my phone went into the Nalgene pocket again. Since I had the day pack hanging from the ridgeline, I used the pockets in that for the iPad, headlamp, and a couple other small things. The water, stove, cup, and tea were in the main compartment of the pack. Everything stayed secure and easy to find.
For the second night, everything loose was clipped to the ridgeline.
The tarp fully deployed.
There is plenty of room to move around underneath . You can squeeze around either end of the hammock without pushing it out from under the tarp. There is not quite as much room on the sides as I might like if the weather was really bad, however.
Just like the first night, the sleep platform was very stable, comfortable, and warm. I never once felt even a hint of cold through the pad. If It was ever necessary, I think I could probably slide a closed-cell foam pad into the pocket with the air mattress. It would be a tight fit, but I think it would work and would increase the insulating value. (Later edit: Two weeks later when I found the written instructions for the Draumr, which Amok had cleverly hidden underneath the playing cards and stickers in a box labeled "Content for happy campers", I discovered that Amok recommends exactly this solution for more warmth if needed. They say to put the foam pad on top of the air mattress in the pocket.)
It did snow overnight, with about an inch or so accumulation. It was not windy, so I didn't really have a test of how well the tarp would keep wind-driven snow out of the hammock. But there is enough overlap that I think it would be minimal. It also occurred to me that if there was so much snow blowing around that it was getting up underneath the tarp, the bug net might be effective at keeping it out of the hammock body. An occasional sharp tap with the back of the hand could throw off any snow that accumulated on it. In any case, that's one reason I upgraded to a microfiber fabric sleeping bag. I did note that there is not any kind of grommet or drain hole anywhere in the hammock. If you do get caught in the rain or snow, there is no place for the water to go. It seems as though it would turn into a big bathtub. I'm going to ask some questions about this, and perhaps make a field modification.
Once again I switched to chair mode in the morning to enjoy a cup of hot spice tea. This time I let just a little too much air out of the pad, and as a result it wasn't rigid enough to hold my feet up in the "recliner" position I'd enjoyed the day before. It was still a warm, comfortable way to spend the time after waking up, but I'll leave it a little more rigid in the future.
I gave the tarp a good shaking so the snow would slide off, and the resulting ridge of snow (see photos) gives a good illustration of the coverage it provides. There is plenty of room underneath for equipment to be out of the weather. With careful planning and pre-placement of the necessary items before going to bed, it would be very easy to have breakfast in bed before getting up and starting the business of the day.
The ridge of snow that slid off the tarp shows the angled configuration that covers the foot and head ends.
There is adequate space underneath the tarp to protect gear from falling snow or rain. (This time there was already snow on the ground when I went out to set up).
I did not actually use the bug net this time, but I did examine it and take some photos. Like several other features of the Draumr 5.0, it is a bit different than those in most of the online videos. It is permanently attached on the left side, and rolls/wads up into the pocket in the corner. There is a little elastic cord and clip there to hold it in place.
The zipper has two pulls on the foot side but only one on the head side. I imagine this is so that you can open it up to get out or reach out for things without having to open it up all the way around. I won't really know until I use it.
There is another elastic cord designed to keep the net out of your face. It starts in a little sliding mesh pocket that's attached to the ridgeline, and has a clip on the end that attaches to a corresponding elastic loop at the head end. It has a cord lock so you can adjust the tension. Unlike earlier versions, there is no cord that goes the entire length of the hammock to the foot end. Although the hook on the cord is probably easier to attach to the loop at the head end than it was at the foot end in the earlier design, I still took the advice of a video reviewer and attached a keychain ring to the elastic loop to make the hook easier to attach. He also recommended attaching a lanyard to one of the zipper pulls to make it easier to reach and pull around while in the hammock. As soon as I can locate one of the many such lanyards that I have "around here someplace", I will see which zipper pull(s) make the most sense and take that advice as well.
One other really big difference I see with this bug net vis-a-vis earlier versions is that it is permanently positioned on the head-to-foot axis via little fabric patches that slide along the ridgeline. I can see that this will help to keep it in place, and is probably why they didn't think that a cord to the foot end was necessary anymore. But I can also see that it will be a bit of a pain when I hang things from the ridgeline. Anything that I have hanging up will have to be removed and then replaced whenever I open or close the bug net. I'll have to see how this goes in practice - I'm sure it's a minor inconvenience to which I can adapt. If I wanted to get out temporarily, I could just slide everything over to the left while opening it, and slide it back once I am inside. Given the clouds of flies and mosquitos at some of the places I've camped, opening and closing the net quickly while I (quickly) enter and exit the hammock will be a skill I will want to practice to perfection.
The Draumr 5.0 with bug net deployed.
Later in the day, while I was writing this blog entry, the weather outside got progressively worse. It had been snowing all day, but around 1300 the wind really picked up. It was strong enough to blow down the long tarp that I had set up in the backyard to protect my night vision against my neighbor's "Clark Griswold" home lighting, so I thought I'd go out and see how the Draumr had fared. I'd left it in chair mode, without the bug net deployed. It was at the same height that I had slept in it. One of the videos had recommended cinching it up high up under the tarp to give better protection from blowing snow, but I don't think I'd do this. I'd rather leave the hammock at the best height for getting in and out and for sitting in it, and lower the tarp for better weather protection if necessary.
Comfort: About equal comfort while sleeping. The Amok has more elbow room.
Use as a chair: No back support. Superior support.
Price: $381.45 (as purchased)
$66.50 (insulated pad cover)
$94.90 (Onewind tarp)
Although I am fortunate not to have to count my pennies, I am not indifferent to price and value. Initially, the higher price of the Amok and its radically different configuration were the major factors in dropping it from consideration. After using both and figuring out the actual configuration I would need in order to use them effectively, the out-of-pocket costs come out to be almost identical.
Somewhere I got the idea that the Draumr weighed 6 1/2 lb., but my numbers came out differently. It is still a bit lighter than the Haven, though.
For me, probably the single most decisive factor is the weight capacity. If the Haven was rated to carry as much weight as the Amok, it would be harder to decide between them. But for me, being so close to the capacity limit means I cannot have very much stuff inside the hammock within easy reach.
The other major factor is the chair configuration of the Amok Draumr. It is really unique, and very comfortable. I have found on earlier trips that I cannot sit comfortably unsupported for as long as I used to do. For this reason I have been carrying my Thermarest Classic sleeping pad and its chair adapter, and have found them essential to my ability to function effectively. Cooking and other inside-the-tent-or-vestibule chores will be different using the Draumr as my chair, but I think they will be feasible, and I will have a comfortable seat with back support versus sitting perched sideways in the Haven with neither back support nor insect protection.
For these reasons, I am going to keep the Amok Draumr 5.0 and return the Haven and the Onewind Tarp. Now that I've learned how to hold on while getting in and out of it, I can hardly wait for the chance to take it out on an actual backpacking trip.
Mood: Happy
Music: We're Gonna Hold On
For those completely unfamiliar with this hammock, here is a one-minute company video showing it:
The Amok Draumr 5.0
After a significant unexplained delay by DHL Freight, My Amok Draumr 5.0 arrived Tuesday afternoon in a box prominently marked "Repacked". It was just in time for me to set it up before dark. I slept out in it for a couple of nights to give it a fair chance before making a final decision. This post is my detailed review of the hammock, with the pros and cons I have observed so far. Spoiler alert: I really like the Amok Draumr 5.0 a lot, and I will be keeping it and sending the Haven Hammock Tent back to the manufacturer for a refund. To learn why, read on.
For those who are not familiar with it, the Amok Draumr is *very* different from any other hammock I have ever seen. The most strikingly obvious difference is that the axis on which the user lies/sits is 90° from the axis of the support lines. This has advantages and disadvantages, but it does make it a very distinctive product.
To use the hammock, you need, at a minimum, the hammock and an air mattress (preferably theirs, as it is an important structural component). These are sold separately, as they have different sizes, weights, and insulation ratings. Additionally, if you want protection from the elements, you need a tarp. Once again, it's probably best to use theirs as it is designed for use with the Amok, but there may be viable or even better alternatives available. I considered looking at the Onewind tarp that I got for the Haven in this connection, but later observations convinced me that it would be unsuitable. I selected the Draumr 5.0 XL in green, the Fjøl Winterlight pad (air mattress), and the Skjold 10 tarp in gray. I would have gotten camouflage, but their pattern is very unusual, even bizarre (at least to my eyes), and I just couldn't get excited about using it.
I was surprised to see that the Winterlight pad was not much heavier than the standard pad, despite having an R5 rating (0°F). This may be a typo on their website, but since my immediate need was for an insulated pad, I bought that one. If I learn later that the pad with less insulation is significantly lighter, I may consider it for use in warmer weather.
I opened up each package inside before going out to set them up. For convenience, I used the Haven pump to inflate the pad. It worked just fine, although for deflation it is less useful because the Fjøl has a different kind of valve. As with the Haven, I doubt if I would want the weight while backpacking, but when that doesn't matter, it's a nice convenience. This pad also comes with a nylon bag for use as an inflating pump, but I did not try to use it. This mattress is much longer than the Haven (87" vs. 80"), but seems about the same width. The tubes go longitudinally to provide the structural rigidity that helps it to lay flat when you want. The pad also includes a repair kit in a small pocket in the stuff sack, which is a nice touch. I deflated it again, so that I could inflate it with cold air outside and avoid having the mattress soften as the air cooled.
The hammock was nicely packaged in a stuff sack with compression straps. Here it is worth mentioning that there are several differences between the Draumr 5.0 and earlier versions. One is that the stuff sack is now separate from the hammock. It used to be permanently attached, and hung on the outside of the hammock when it was set up, but they changed that. Now it has a clip that you can attach to a point on the inside, creating a storage pocket. It's a nice touch - too bad the other two components' stuff sacks don't have the same feature. There are many, many videos online (both by Amok as well as by independent reviewers) showing the Amok and its features, often with tips and tricks for using it. But be aware that many of these video reviews use previous versions of the hammock, so not everything is applicable.
After a significant unexplained delay by DHL Freight, My Amok Draumr 5.0 arrived Tuesday afternoon in a box prominently marked "Repacked". It was just in time for me to set it up before dark. I slept out in it for a couple of nights to give it a fair chance before making a final decision. This post is my detailed review of the hammock, with the pros and cons I have observed so far. Spoiler alert: I really like the Amok Draumr 5.0 a lot, and I will be keeping it and sending the Haven Hammock Tent back to the manufacturer for a refund. To learn why, read on.
For those who are not familiar with it, the Amok Draumr is *very* different from any other hammock I have ever seen. The most strikingly obvious difference is that the axis on which the user lies/sits is 90° from the axis of the support lines. This has advantages and disadvantages, but it does make it a very distinctive product.
To use the hammock, you need, at a minimum, the hammock and an air mattress (preferably theirs, as it is an important structural component). These are sold separately, as they have different sizes, weights, and insulation ratings. Additionally, if you want protection from the elements, you need a tarp. Once again, it's probably best to use theirs as it is designed for use with the Amok, but there may be viable or even better alternatives available. I considered looking at the Onewind tarp that I got for the Haven in this connection, but later observations convinced me that it would be unsuitable. I selected the Draumr 5.0 XL in green, the Fjøl Winterlight pad (air mattress), and the Skjold 10 tarp in gray. I would have gotten camouflage, but their pattern is very unusual, even bizarre (at least to my eyes), and I just couldn't get excited about using it.
I was surprised to see that the Winterlight pad was not much heavier than the standard pad, despite having an R5 rating (0°F). This may be a typo on their website, but since my immediate need was for an insulated pad, I bought that one. If I learn later that the pad with less insulation is significantly lighter, I may consider it for use in warmer weather.
I opened up each package inside before going out to set them up. For convenience, I used the Haven pump to inflate the pad. It worked just fine, although for deflation it is less useful because the Fjøl has a different kind of valve. As with the Haven, I doubt if I would want the weight while backpacking, but when that doesn't matter, it's a nice convenience. This pad also comes with a nylon bag for use as an inflating pump, but I did not try to use it. This mattress is much longer than the Haven (87" vs. 80"), but seems about the same width. The tubes go longitudinally to provide the structural rigidity that helps it to lay flat when you want. The pad also includes a repair kit in a small pocket in the stuff sack, which is a nice touch. I deflated it again, so that I could inflate it with cold air outside and avoid having the mattress soften as the air cooled.
The hammock was nicely packaged in a stuff sack with compression straps. Here it is worth mentioning that there are several differences between the Draumr 5.0 and earlier versions. One is that the stuff sack is now separate from the hammock. It used to be permanently attached, and hung on the outside of the hammock when it was set up, but they changed that. Now it has a clip that you can attach to a point on the inside, creating a storage pocket. It's a nice touch - too bad the other two components' stuff sacks don't have the same feature. There are many, many videos online (both by Amok as well as by independent reviewers) showing the Amok and its features, often with tips and tricks for using it. But be aware that many of these video reviews use previous versions of the hammock, so not everything is applicable.
(Later edit: I was more than a little disappointed not to get any kind of user manual or instructions with the Draumr. Videos are OK if that is all you have, but I am a reader, and prefer written instructions. I did get a little brown box of Amok swag labeled “Content for happy campers”. I opened it and looked inside, and saw that it contained a deck of playing cards and some Amok stickers. I thought “That’s nice of them, but not right now”, and set it aside for later. Two or three weeks later I noticed the box still sitting on my desk and opened it in an idle moment. It had the playing cards and stickers, and underneath the stickers were: INSTRUCTIONS! It was not only the instructions buried out of sight under the swag, but also the bright yellow warning card telling you (in red ink, no less) all the things *not* to do. There were some really valuable tips in the instructions. So: read on, knowing that if I had had these instructions before I went outside, I might have saved myself some of the trouble you will read about below).
The tree straps are proprietary, and specific to the Amok. They wrap around the tree through a loop just like others I've seen, but there are no loops in the strap for attaching carabiners. The end of the strap has a metal tab that fits into a little metal bracket on the hammock, forming an adjustable buckle. The tree straps are identical to each other, but the hammock ridgeline is labeled prominently with "Port" (red) and "Starboard" (green) to differentiate which end of the sleeping platform is the head and which is the foot. The ends of the tree straps have velcro loops for holding them neatly coiled when not in use. I also found these useful as finger loops to pull the strap tighter. I don't know if it was intended to be used this way, but it works. (Later edit: This was a bad idea. The velcro loops are not strong enough for this, and now I have a repair job to do.)
The tarp has its own stuff sack, and includes six stakes that are contained in a velcro-closure pocket. Guy lines were already attached and ready to use (they just needed to be uncoiled, which did take a moment as they were tightly wound). Each attachment point on the tarp also has a velcro loop for coiling up loose guyline, a very nice feature. The guylines at the ends of the ridgeline have small snap links for attaching to the tree straps or other attachment point. These are also color coded red/green, because the tarp is asymmetrical to fit the way the hammock hangs - the foot end is longer than the head end. One more point - the tarp includes a tube of seam sealant, a brush, and instructions. Having read the information on the website, I expected to have to seal the tarp before using it. But the written instructions that came with the tarp said that this is just a precaution because "a small percentage" of their tarps might leak a small amount in heavy rain. The instructions recommend trying the tarp out in the backyard first to see if sealing the seam is necessary. I am certain that I will seal the seam eventually, but I took this advice and proceeded to go outside to set it all up for the first time. (Later edit: I read the instructions, watched the video, and sealed the seam on the tarp. Better safe than sorry.)
I started to set up the Amok in the same spot I had used for the Haven. I very quickly learned that because of the proprietary connector, there is a definite limit to the distance between trees you can use. In this case, they were too far apart by several feet. So I found a couple different trees. I paced off about seven paces (my paces are 30" each) as the maximum distance possible. This is also a function of the diameter of the tree trunks, and these are big trees. With smaller trees you'd gain some additional reach. And of course, you could also just get a set of generic tree straps and carabiners to use as extensions (the ones that came with the Haven would work great). I don't know if this will be an issue or not, as I have not yet gone out camping with a hammock. I may take some along the first time I go; better safe than sorry. (This philosophy is why I am not an ultralight backpacker, lol).
Inserting the pad into the hammock was interesting. The hammock has a zippered pocket to hold the pad in place. Because the hammock was limp and the pocket is fairly tight, it took me a minute to figure out the best way to get it in. It turned out that slipping the hammock pocket over the top edge of the pad, and then pulling most of the material over the end of the pad before sliding it all the way in was much better than trying to slide the whole pad into the pocket. I got a chance to practice this twice, because I had inserted the pad foot-end first. It doesn't really make a difference, but at the head end of the pad pocket there is an opening to give you access to the valve on the pad, which turns out to be very handy if you want to add or release air once it's set up. When I saw that, I took the pad out and put it in again the right way.
The last step in setting up the hammock was to insert the poles in the head and foot ends. The hammock has what they call "stick pockets", where you insert a conveniently-sized stick to prop it up and give more foot- and headroom. They sell a set of two lightweight poles for this purpose as well, and I had bought a set.
Once I had the hammock set up, I set up the tarp. It was very easy to just clip the color coded mini-carabiners to the tree straps, then stake out the guy lines. The guy lines have very effective plastic tighteners. I was not very impressed with the stakes that come with it, however. They are a bit short, and are a simple piece of angled aluminum. The notch in the stakes to hold the rope is on the wrong side, so that rather than the angle digging in like a little shovel and holding the stake in place, the corner is facing the tarp like a wedge. I just can't imagine them holding well under stress. I replaced them with MSR Groundhog stakes for the next night, and will use those instead of the ones that came with it.
One of the many videos I had watched had emphasized the desirability of setting up the tarp so that there was enough room to stand upright underneath, and I agree with this. The difficulty is that this means the hammock also has to be a certain height off the ground, which may be too high. I later came to the conclusion that a separate line around the tree for the tarp would be desirable, so that the hammock height and the tarp height could be adjusted independently. This would also solve the main challenge of setting up this hammock in bad weather, when you'd want to have the tarp set up first before getting the hammock out. Until the hammock is attached to the buckles, there is no tension on the tree straps, and so nothing to keep the tarp taut while you set up the hammock underneath. Next time I will run a length of parachute cord around the trees and attach the tarp to them, then set up the hammock underneath. (Later edit: This worked very well.) (Even later edit: The written instructions showed how to loop the tarp guyline around the tree and clip it to itself, an even simpler solution that I hadn’t thought of. The videos I had seen showed the tarp carabiners clipped to the tree strap. Since I always carry a “rope bag” with assorted lengths of parachute cord, I can always use my original idea if the guylines are too short).
The tarp guylines are supposed to be reflective, but were much less visible than others I have seen. They seemed to show up OK under white light, but because I use the red light on my headlamp to preserve my night vision, whatever reflector they use on the guy lines was nearly invisible. Fortunately there was a full moon a lot of the time.
Because it was a clear night, I left the front three guy lines unhooked, and flipped the front of the tarp over the ridge so that I could sleep with a clear view of the night sky.
Draumr 5.0 ready for sleeping. You can see the pole propping up the foot end. There is one at the head end as well.
My first night sleeping in the Amok was an adventure in itself. I dressed exactly the same as I had for my nights out in the Haven (long underwear, socks & down booties, polypro wristovers, and a fleece cap), but because the temperature never got below about 22°F, it was not nearly the stress test of insulation value that my nights in the Haven had been. Nonetheless, it was cold enough that I didn't want to stay exposed for long as I got in and out of the hammock.
I had several ultralight carabiners as well as the stuff sacks I normally use for pillows. I had put the carabiners around various straps inside the hammock where it seemed they'd be secure and easy to reach, intending to clip the sacks to them when they were in use. I also had planned what would go in the mesh pockets on either side.
Climbing into the Amok is an athletic event. I had watched several videos about using it, each of which discussed different techniques for getting in and out. The company also produced this one:
How to get into and out of the Amok Draumr
This video has several very useful suggestions that helped me a lot (eventually). The Amok employees make it look very easy, and once you get the hang of it, it's not that hard. But note that in the video, the hammock is completely empty (no sleeping bag or other gear), and it also has no sticks or poles propping up the ends. For my first night, I never really got the "hang of it", so to speak. My entrances and exits from the hammock exhibited all the grace and elegance of an elephant on ice skates, despite my best efforts. One thing they said in one of these videos might have been the most valuable piece of advice I'd heard, and it came back to me several times in the night: "Trust the hammock". As you shift around inside it, sometimes it feels like it's about to pitch you right out one way or the other. It never actually did (except when I was trying to get out). So despite all the swinging around, it was very secure, once I was in it.
Climbing in usually took me several tries, each time rearranging all the stuff that had slid down to the foot end when I (unintentionally) flipped the hammock up to a vertical position. When I finally managed to get in and stay in, I'd spend several minutes wiggling around, trying to get the sleeping bag and other stuff rearranged without sliding back down to the foot end and finding myself standing up. Once again, the next morning I felt like I'd done about a thousand sit-ups.
Climbing out never took me more than one try, but I also never ended up quite where I wanted to be. No matter what I tried to do or where I held on, I'd end up dumping myself out onto my hands and knees or else onto my rear end. At least the space blanket I'd left out as a kind of "front porch" when climbing in saved me from sitting in the snow. 🤣
I had taken off my boots and put on down booties before climbing in, but I wanted to try undressing for bed while in the hammock. This has always been my technique for minimizing heat loss and maximizing comfort. I had been unable to do it at all in the Haven. In the Amok I did manage to do it, but it was tricky because every motion of any body part changes the center of gravity and tilts the hammock. (Fast forward - the second night I got undressed outside the hammock, then climbed in. This proved to be much easier, and didn't take long enough for me to lose any significant amount of body heat).
I had left my boots outside covered with a stuff sack and weighing down one end of the space blanket, with my day pack weighing down the other end. I put my pants in one stuff sack and my wool shirt in another, and snapped them into carabiners so they could lay suspended on either side of me. My iPad (with my glasses) went in the end pocket on the right side, opposite the bug net pocket, my phone into one of the mesh pockets, and few small odds and ends in the Draumer stuff sack that was now clipped in place inside. A couple of things (e.g. a pair of gloves) I just tucked underneath the material on either side, where the straps are attached. This material forms a sort of continuous pocket all up and down each side of the sleeping platform. My headlamp went into the Nalgene bottle pocket when it wasn't on my head.
Nearly every one of these decisions turned out to be a mistake.
Because my entrances and exits were so ungainly, anything that was not tied down either slid around (best case) or got ejected out into the snow. This included my phone, which I had to retrieve more than once after one of my America's-Funniest-Home-Videos-worthy attempts to get into or out of the hammock.
Once I got situated inside and settled down to sleep, I discovered that the stuff sacks that had seemed so well-situated before now slid around in all directions, depending on which way the hammock leaned. If I reached to move one out from under one part of me, that changed the center of gravity and another one would slide into place from the other side. I finally solved this by just flipping them out over the edge of the Amok and letting them dangle. I secured the phone by putting it into the Nalgene bottle pocket, which is much deeper than the mesh pockets on the sides.
This all worked fine until I had to get up several times through the night. After my invariably ignominious exit, my folded parka-pillow and the sleeping bag would wind up in a heap at the foot end of the now-vertical Amok. So I'd rearrange them, take care of business, and then try to get back in. I rarely got in on the first attempt, so they'd end up at the bottom again. Lather, rinse, repeat. I did finally figure this all out on the second night, but my first night in the Amok brought this to mind:
Pick Yourself Up
Achieving a stable sleep position is a combination of setting up the Amok properly, and then getting yourself properly positioned inside it. While trying to go to sleep, I noticed that no matter what I did or how I wiggled around, I was always leaning (and thus sliding) a little to the left. I got out and adjusted the main support straps a couple of times, loosening the right one and tightening the left, but it had no discernible effect. I finally realized that the problem was the height of the straps on the trees. Although I had reached up and put them on the trees at exactly the same height with respect to my reach, the ground was uneven, and the left side was actually a few inches lower with respect to the earth, and gravity was having its effect. With some difficulty due to the Amok being loaded with my stuff, I adjusted the position of the straps on the trees. By standing at the foot end of the hammock and looking at the ridgeline, I could determine when it was (finally) horizontal. When I got back in after that, it felt level and I had no problem staying centered on the pad left-to-right. Staying centered front-to-back simply requires grasping the center support fabric on each side and pulling/pushing yourself until you're in the right position to be balanced and horizontal.
Aside from all of this "discovery learning" about how to use the hammock, I was very comfortable and warm in the intervals when I did get settled in to sleep. Sometimes I felt a little gentle rocking, but mostly it was just a stable, warm, comfortable bed, and I slept very well.
In the morning, I decided to put the Amok into its chair configuration and enjoy a cup of hot tea while watching the sunrise. This involves adjusting two pairs of straps, one in the middle to pull it up under your knees, and another at the top to pull the head end up and forward to form the back support. They each have a generous finger loop on the ends to aid in adjustment. The easiest way to tighten them up is to use two hands: one hand pulls the end of the strap with the loop away from the buckle while the other hand pulls the other side of the strap to relieve tension and help feed it into the buckle. Once you get the hang of it, it's not hard to just tighten them right up. There's a little resistance to bending the pad (actually an air mattress) at the knees, as it is very rigid to provide a stable sleep platform. I reached up to the valve and released a little air, which made it fold into the chair much more easily.
If the hammock is too high off the ground, sitting forward in the chair will just make it behave like a swing. But if you adjust the height just right, you can get it so your feet will contact the ground while you're still inside, and it becomes a very stable chair, more like a porch swing. Once I had the hammock in this position, I put on my wool shirt and down vest, keeping the rest of myself in the sleeping bag. Then I could reach forward onto the ground and set up an Esbit stove to heat water. This time I had my spice tea mix instead of tea bags, so I was able to sit back in my chair warmly wrapped in the sleeping bag and watch the sunrise while sipping the hot, sweet drink, warming my hands on the cup. Even though I was just in my own back yard, it was easy to imagine being on the shore of an alpine lake or overlooking a mountain valley. Those are the moments that make it all worthwhile.
With the hammock at the correct height, you can brace your feet on the ground while in "chair mode", then reach down to heat water or retrieve gear from your pack.
The ridgeline is a convenient place to hang things while you work with other things. Too much moving around makes it a bit risky to hang the cup like this when it's full, though.
A quiet, peaceful sunrise while warmly ensconced in my sleeping bag and reclining chair with a hot drink.
For my second night out, the temperature was supposed to be about the same but there was snow in the forecast, so I left the tarp all the way up rather than half open. I often go to sleep in the open even under those conditions, and just jump up and secure the roof when I need it. But given my experiences the first night, I didn't really want to wake up with snowflakes on my nose, then dump myself and everything else out of the hammock while trying to get out to put up the tarp. As it turned out, my lack of confidence was unjustified.
This time, instead of securing things to various straps using the carabiners, I clipped everything that was not secured in a pocket onto the ridgeline. This not only made it easy to find, but also ensured that it would not affect the balance of the hammock. When I found that the day pack had a tendency to migrate toward the middle, I secured its carabiner to the side with a short cord. I also rigged a length of parachute cord across the top (head) end, and folded my parka-pillow around it. This way, when I up-ended the hammock getting in or out, at least the parka-pillow would stay more-or-less in place.
Getting into the Amok the second night, I decided to undress first. This was much easier and quicker. Holding onto the ridgeline with one hand gives excellent support for stability, and I had everything stowed away in short order. I folded the space blanket and stowed it as well, rather than leave it out on the ground.
The technique I finally adopted for getting in was to stand on one side with my back to the Amok, and reach over behind me to grasp the center support fabric. Then I'd straddle the foot end, pulling it forward between my legs with the free hand while keeping it as nearly horizontal as possible, until I could reach over and grasp the support fabric on the other side. With a firm grasp on the support fabric on both sides, I then sort of gently hopped up and backwards while pulling forward with my hands, trying to get my rear end as far in as possible. I got a little better at this every time I did it.
To get out of the hammock, I found it best to grasp the support fabric on each side, then put my feet out to either side of the foot end, then bend my knees and pull my feet back towards the center line. I would lean forward a bit to get my feet securely on the ground as far underneath me as possible, then let go with one hand, reach up and grab/hook my arm around the front side of the ridgeline, and use it as a support to lift myself up while standing up out of the hammock.
In contrast to my experience the first night, on the second night I never once dumped myself on the ground or flipped the hammock into the vertical position while getting in or out. If the first night was like the "Pick Me Up" video, the second night felt more like this:
What I've Learned
I also used the pockets differently, and never launched anything out onto the ground. The mesh pocket held a pair of gloves, and my phone went into the Nalgene pocket again. Since I had the day pack hanging from the ridgeline, I used the pockets in that for the iPad, headlamp, and a couple other small things. The water, stove, cup, and tea were in the main compartment of the pack. Everything stayed secure and easy to find.
For the second night, everything loose was clipped to the ridgeline.
The tarp fully deployed.
There is plenty of room to move around underneath . You can squeeze around either end of the hammock without pushing it out from under the tarp. There is not quite as much room on the sides as I might like if the weather was really bad, however.
Just like the first night, the sleep platform was very stable, comfortable, and warm. I never once felt even a hint of cold through the pad. If It was ever necessary, I think I could probably slide a closed-cell foam pad into the pocket with the air mattress. It would be a tight fit, but I think it would work and would increase the insulating value. (Later edit: Two weeks later when I found the written instructions for the Draumr, which Amok had cleverly hidden underneath the playing cards and stickers in a box labeled "Content for happy campers", I discovered that Amok recommends exactly this solution for more warmth if needed. They say to put the foam pad on top of the air mattress in the pocket.)
It did snow overnight, with about an inch or so accumulation. It was not windy, so I didn't really have a test of how well the tarp would keep wind-driven snow out of the hammock. But there is enough overlap that I think it would be minimal. It also occurred to me that if there was so much snow blowing around that it was getting up underneath the tarp, the bug net might be effective at keeping it out of the hammock body. An occasional sharp tap with the back of the hand could throw off any snow that accumulated on it. In any case, that's one reason I upgraded to a microfiber fabric sleeping bag. I did note that there is not any kind of grommet or drain hole anywhere in the hammock. If you do get caught in the rain or snow, there is no place for the water to go. It seems as though it would turn into a big bathtub. I'm going to ask some questions about this, and perhaps make a field modification.
Once again I switched to chair mode in the morning to enjoy a cup of hot spice tea. This time I let just a little too much air out of the pad, and as a result it wasn't rigid enough to hold my feet up in the "recliner" position I'd enjoyed the day before. It was still a warm, comfortable way to spend the time after waking up, but I'll leave it a little more rigid in the future.
I gave the tarp a good shaking so the snow would slide off, and the resulting ridge of snow (see photos) gives a good illustration of the coverage it provides. There is plenty of room underneath for equipment to be out of the weather. With careful planning and pre-placement of the necessary items before going to bed, it would be very easy to have breakfast in bed before getting up and starting the business of the day.
The ridge of snow that slid off the tarp shows the angled configuration that covers the foot and head ends.
There is adequate space underneath the tarp to protect gear from falling snow or rain. (This time there was already snow on the ground when I went out to set up).
I did not actually use the bug net this time, but I did examine it and take some photos. Like several other features of the Draumr 5.0, it is a bit different than those in most of the online videos. It is permanently attached on the left side, and rolls/wads up into the pocket in the corner. There is a little elastic cord and clip there to hold it in place.
The zipper has two pulls on the foot side but only one on the head side. I imagine this is so that you can open it up to get out or reach out for things without having to open it up all the way around. I won't really know until I use it.
There is another elastic cord designed to keep the net out of your face. It starts in a little sliding mesh pocket that's attached to the ridgeline, and has a clip on the end that attaches to a corresponding elastic loop at the head end. It has a cord lock so you can adjust the tension. Unlike earlier versions, there is no cord that goes the entire length of the hammock to the foot end. Although the hook on the cord is probably easier to attach to the loop at the head end than it was at the foot end in the earlier design, I still took the advice of a video reviewer and attached a keychain ring to the elastic loop to make the hook easier to attach. He also recommended attaching a lanyard to one of the zipper pulls to make it easier to reach and pull around while in the hammock. As soon as I can locate one of the many such lanyards that I have "around here someplace", I will see which zipper pull(s) make the most sense and take that advice as well.
 |
| This is a neat little mesh pocket on the ridgeline that would be perfect for the headlamp or something. But it's only accessible when the bug net is deployed. |
 |
| I added the keychain ring to make it easier to hook up the cord that keeps the bug net out of your face. |
One other really big difference I see with this bug net vis-a-vis earlier versions is that it is permanently positioned on the head-to-foot axis via little fabric patches that slide along the ridgeline. I can see that this will help to keep it in place, and is probably why they didn't think that a cord to the foot end was necessary anymore. But I can also see that it will be a bit of a pain when I hang things from the ridgeline. Anything that I have hanging up will have to be removed and then replaced whenever I open or close the bug net. I'll have to see how this goes in practice - I'm sure it's a minor inconvenience to which I can adapt. If I wanted to get out temporarily, I could just slide everything over to the left while opening it, and slide it back once I am inside. Given the clouds of flies and mosquitos at some of the places I've camped, opening and closing the net quickly while I (quickly) enter and exit the hammock will be a skill I will want to practice to perfection.
The Draumr 5.0 with bug net deployed.
Later in the day, while I was writing this blog entry, the weather outside got progressively worse. It had been snowing all day, but around 1300 the wind really picked up. It was strong enough to blow down the long tarp that I had set up in the backyard to protect my night vision against my neighbor's "Clark Griswold" home lighting, so I thought I'd go out and see how the Draumr had fared. I'd left it in chair mode, without the bug net deployed. It was at the same height that I had slept in it. One of the videos had recommended cinching it up high up under the tarp to give better protection from blowing snow, but I don't think I'd do this. I'd rather leave the hammock at the best height for getting in and out and for sitting in it, and lower the tarp for better weather protection if necessary.
When I inspected the hammock, there was a *very* small amount of blown snow on the sleeping bag and accumulated along a couple of seams on the sides of the pad pocket. I brushed these out, returned the hammock to "lay flat" mode (including reinflating the pad so it is rigid), and deployed the bug net. Later on I will take another look, but I am very confident that the bug net will intercept whatever small amount of snow may blow up under the edges of the tarp, so they would not have a chance to get anything inside wet unless they were ignored and later melted. It's not a shelter for a full-blown winter gale, but I am pretty impressed by how little snow was inside given the way it's been blowing all afternoon.
I did not weigh the individual components of the Amok Draumr 5.0. I did not have time before dark on the day it arrived, and because it is still snowing, it remains set up outside pending a break in the weather. The weights according to the Amok website are:
Draumr 5.0 XL Hammock: 49 oz. (3 lb., 1 oz.)
Skjold 10 Tarp: 23 oz. (1 lb., 7 oz.)
Fjøl Winterlight Pad (air mattress): 35.4 oz. (2 lb., 3.4 oz.)
Pole Set: 1.6 oz
Total Weight as shipped: 109 oz. (6 lb., 13 oz.)
The only component I intend to replace are the stakes for the tarp:
Amok stakes: @ 0.4 oz ; ∴ 6@ = 2.4 oz
MSR stakes: @ 0.6 oz ; ∴ 6@ = 3.6 oz.
∆ weight for stakes = + 1.2 oz.
I also plan to take along an extra set of tree straps. The Haven straps would be perfect, but if they won't sell them separately I will find others.
Haven tree straps: 2 @ = 5.2 oz.
Total weight of the Amok Draumr 5.0 as I will carry it: 115.4 oz. (7 lb., 3.4 oz.)
Conclusion:
Both the Haven Hammock Tent and the Amok Draumr 5.0 are first-class products. I like them both very much. Each has its pros and cons, as I have already described in detail.
Aside from all the little design details, for me the major factors were:
Haven Amok Draumr 5.0
Rated Capacity: 280 lb. 400 lb.
Weight: 8 lb. 7 lb. 3.4 oz
(as carried)
I did not weigh the individual components of the Amok Draumr 5.0. I did not have time before dark on the day it arrived, and because it is still snowing, it remains set up outside pending a break in the weather. The weights according to the Amok website are:
Draumr 5.0 XL Hammock: 49 oz. (3 lb., 1 oz.)
Skjold 10 Tarp: 23 oz. (1 lb., 7 oz.)
Fjøl Winterlight Pad (air mattress): 35.4 oz. (2 lb., 3.4 oz.)
Pole Set: 1.6 oz
Total Weight as shipped: 109 oz. (6 lb., 13 oz.)
The only component I intend to replace are the stakes for the tarp:
Amok stakes: @ 0.4 oz ; ∴ 6@ = 2.4 oz
MSR stakes: @ 0.6 oz ; ∴ 6@ = 3.6 oz.
∆ weight for stakes = + 1.2 oz.
I also plan to take along an extra set of tree straps. The Haven straps would be perfect, but if they won't sell them separately I will find others.
Haven tree straps: 2 @ = 5.2 oz.
Total weight of the Amok Draumr 5.0 as I will carry it: 115.4 oz. (7 lb., 3.4 oz.)
Conclusion:
Both the Haven Hammock Tent and the Amok Draumr 5.0 are first-class products. I like them both very much. Each has its pros and cons, as I have already described in detail.
Aside from all the little design details, for me the major factors were:
Haven Amok Draumr 5.0
Rated Capacity: 280 lb. 400 lb.
Weight: 8 lb. 7 lb. 3.4 oz
(as carried)
Comfort: About equal comfort while sleeping. The Amok has more elbow room.
Use as a chair: No back support. Superior support.
Price: $381.45 (as purchased)
$66.50 (insulated pad cover)
$94.90 (Onewind tarp)
$542.85 (total as carried) $544.80
Shelter Value: As shipped, about equal. With the Onewind tarp, the Haven has more covered area and is more convenient to move around outside the hammock. It may also protect better against wind-driven snow or rain. I'll mostly have to trust the Norwegians on this one, lol.
Shelter Value: As shipped, about equal. With the Onewind tarp, the Haven has more covered area and is more convenient to move around outside the hammock. It may also protect better against wind-driven snow or rain. I'll mostly have to trust the Norwegians on this one, lol.
Although I am fortunate not to have to count my pennies, I am not indifferent to price and value. Initially, the higher price of the Amok and its radically different configuration were the major factors in dropping it from consideration. After using both and figuring out the actual configuration I would need in order to use them effectively, the out-of-pocket costs come out to be almost identical.
Somewhere I got the idea that the Draumr weighed 6 1/2 lb., but my numbers came out differently. It is still a bit lighter than the Haven, though.
For me, probably the single most decisive factor is the weight capacity. If the Haven was rated to carry as much weight as the Amok, it would be harder to decide between them. But for me, being so close to the capacity limit means I cannot have very much stuff inside the hammock within easy reach.
The other major factor is the chair configuration of the Amok Draumr. It is really unique, and very comfortable. I have found on earlier trips that I cannot sit comfortably unsupported for as long as I used to do. For this reason I have been carrying my Thermarest Classic sleeping pad and its chair adapter, and have found them essential to my ability to function effectively. Cooking and other inside-the-tent-or-vestibule chores will be different using the Draumr as my chair, but I think they will be feasible, and I will have a comfortable seat with back support versus sitting perched sideways in the Haven with neither back support nor insect protection.
For these reasons, I am going to keep the Amok Draumr 5.0 and return the Haven and the Onewind Tarp. Now that I've learned how to hold on while getting in and out of it, I can hardly wait for the chance to take it out on an actual backpacking trip.
Mood: Happy
Music: We're Gonna Hold On
posted by Brad @ 11:59:00 AM
0 comments
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home