Camp Arifjan

Friday, 10/13/06
2130

Today I processed into my unit and got to know my way around Camp Arifjan a little bit. (There are alternative spellings for Arifjan, but that is how I've seen it spelled since I arrived here). It’s a pretty good sized installation (the phrase “sprawling Army base” comes to mind). I think perhaps being in the desert where everything is flat and featureless makes it seem larger. Everything you see (except the sand and gravel and a few planted trees) is man-made. Nothing rises out of the ground except concrete, steel, canvas, and vehicles.

There are a couple of radio towers and a large water tower to help with orientation and navigation. The place is divided into zones for reference purposes. The whole camp is a maze of concrete barriers like you see during road construction – both the typical smaller sized ones about three feet high and also much larger ones that are as tall as me. They are used to mark off various operational areas and roads, channel vehicle traffic, and also provide protection from bomb blasts should that be necessary. There are shuttle buses that ferry troops around the base, and I rode them several times today.

After making my earlier blog entry, I rode the shuttle over and reported in to my unit. They got me started on inprocessing (believe it or not, even more forms to fill out, some of which were repetitions of forms I’ve already filled out five and six times). I am getting really thoroughly sick and tired of having to fill out the same information everywhere I go. But I went through it and gave them the information – what else are you going to do? But it’s a crying shame how much time and effort is wasted on BS like this.

I’ll know more about my unit as I get to know people and know my job, but I did learn a little bit today. The most important thing I learned was that the scope is much narrower than I had been led to imagine. I had the responsibilities pretty much dead on, but I am not the FMO for the entire installation – only for our little piece of it. It is about five buildings total, three of which are huge warehouses which have been converted into offices and living quarters. I was pretty relieved to hear this, because with the size staff I was told I’d have, I was really scratching my head wondering how they expected me to be responsible for this entire place.

I got a short in-brief on some of the outstanding issues and previous occurrences, and I can see now why the LTC said that my challenges would be people, time, and resource management. I think a large part of it is going to be managing people’s expectations and perceptions, and helping my staff to prioritize our work when everybody wants his problem solved “now*. Everybody who meets me smiles knowingly and says I have a challenging job.

As I drove around today, I was struck again and again by just how vast an operation this is. It hit me first in the DFAC, watching people process through to eat. There were hundreds of people moving through the line, from every branch of service. There are even quite a few Navy people here (mostly Seabees), which surprised me a little. The din was tremendous – between people talking and TV’s blaring (every one of them tuned to Fox News) it was almost sensory overload. But watching all of them, I got a sense of the scale of what I’m a part of, in a different way than I had before. Perhaps it’s because I was able to see their faces and watch them talking to the other people they were with. Whatever the reason, it was an interesting feeling.

The food was really good. It reminded me of a scene in “Rough Riders” where one of the outlaws who had joined the Army in order to escape capture by a posse was trying to get his compadre to desert. His compadre gave several reasons why he liked the Army and wanted to stay, capping it off with “and besides, the food’s good and there’s plenty of it”. And that’s the truth. If I lose any weight here, it won’t be for lack of opportunities to eat.

The quantities of materiel here are mind-boggling. It reminds me of pictures I’ve seen of England before the Normandy invasion in WWII. There are literally hundreds and hundreds of vehicles of every description lined up in vast vehicle parks, and hundreds of buildings, tents, pallets of materiel, with soldiers, marines, airmen, and sailors running around in every direction doing their work. There is quite literally a constant hum of activity, because everything is powered by generators, and every building and tent has one or more air conditioners running. The fuel consumption must be phenomenal – these things are running 24/7. Any time I go outside my tent, the area is lit up like a stadium at a night game (in fact, there is a running track right outside my tent, and basketball, volleyball, and tennis courts just down the road). As far as other MWR facilities, there’s a gym, the PX, a “community center” that I haven’t been in yet, the cyber café, and a vendor’s row with a variety of so-called “Hajji Stores”, i.e. the local vendors selling their stuff on post under concession agreements (mostly rugs, gold, and various handicrafts). There are also a number of familiar vendors, such as Hardee’s, Pizza Hut, etc. Last night when I came in I really wanted something to eat, and I went to the only place that stays open 24 hours besides the cyber café – Starbucks! Yes, there is a Starbucks at Camp Arifjan. They even have the little round tables with the checkerboards on them. So last night, on my first night in country, I had a chocolate crème frappuccino at Starbucks. :-)

It turns out the Cyber Cafe has laptop hookups that are also $5 per hour, so I've gotten smarter since this morning. I composed this entry offline and will simply upload it and log off. This also solves my problem of a secure connection for banking (assuming these people are honest), since it is an Ethernet hookup, not wireless. Even if I don't figure out how to do it from my room, I can always come here once a week or so to update Quicken and Quickbooks with the bank. I expect, though, that that will become less necessary since I'll be spending less money - probably only once a month or so once I get settled in.

Anyway, the scale of this place is amazing – I feel like a very small piece in a very large puzzle. Tomorrow I’ll begin to get more of a feel for my actual job and try to start getting my arms around it. I’ve gotten conflicting stories from various people about how much I should plan to work this weekend, but I think I’ve farted around long enough “getting mobilized”, and now that I’m here it’s time to get down to work.

In Country

Friday 10/13/06
1300

I am now officially "In Country", at Camp Arifjan in Kuwait.

It's been a pretty full couple of days. I'm currently in the "CeeZee", for Cyberzone, a commercial internet access facility that I noticed while going to lunch just now. I haven't even started to work on getting my own PC hooked in, but I wanted at least to make a "safe arrival" entry here as soon as possible. The rate for internet access at this facility is $5 per hour, so I won't be spending a lot of time here, but it's worth it for the convenience right now.

We took off around 2000 Wednesday from Atlanta. It was a pretty easy flight, although long. It was a commercial airliner (Omani Air), chartered by the military. We boarded last, due to our passenger status (most of the soldiers there were returning form R&R leave, and only about 20 of us were actually going over for the first time. I thought this might mean I'd get wedged into a center seat, but they had it pretty well organized and as I got on they guided me left into what would have been first class, and I got a nice wide aisle seat with plenty of leg room. RHIP, again.

They had movies, etc, but I mostly read and dozed for the entire flight. They fed us several times, and it went by pretty quickly. We had a layover in Hahn, Germany at what used to be Hahn Airbase near Frankfurt. We waited around for about two hours while they serviced the plane and changed crews, then flew the second leg to Kuwait. I lost track of elapsed time, because I switched to Kuwait time as soon as we were on the plane, but I know the flight time from Germany was just over five hours. The time here is seven hours ahead, because they are not on daylight savings time.

We landed in Kuwait around 1930. It was dark already, and they loaded us right on buses and took us to a marshalling area. There they had giant coolers full of bottled water and Gatorade, as well as latrines. We were there about 30 minutes while they consolidated the passengers from several flights, and then we all loaded on buses again for the ride to another base. It was hot, but not really unpleasant. The ground surface was all sand and gravel, without a growing thing in sight (of course it was dark). The entire area was bathed in a dim light from giant lightpoles spaced very far apart, like a huge parking lot. The effect was about like the light of a full moon. There were supplemental lights placed around at key positions, so I was alternately blinded by light or peering into the darkness, depending upon which direction I looked. I took a few photos which I'll post later.

At this base we were sorted out by where we were going and processed through the appropriate briefings. Among the briefings for new arrivals was an OPSEC (Operational Security) briefing which specifically cautioned us about being too specific about locations, TTP's (Tactics, Techniques, and Procedures), etc. in weblogs. Apparently blogs have been a source of intelligence for the bad guys, particularly photographs with captions (e.g. "This is the headquarters facility where I work - the General sits in the corner office" etc.). I'll want to post some photos, etc, but when I do get set up to do that they'll be less specific than the ones I posted while I was still in the U.S.

Once they were through with us there, I found my baggage and got on a bus back to Camp Arifjan. There we got a ride to the temporary billeting area, where I'll stay until I get permanent quarters assigned. I got assigned to a tent almost exactly like the one I stayed in the last night we were in Korea, except this one has metal bunks and wall lockers.

There were two other officers in this tent, and it was clear they had been here for some time. They have the place arranged as though it is their regular quarters, which it may well be. A TV and a large Persian rug between their bunks made it look less temporary. It seems that where you stay on this base is partly a function of what unit you're in, and partly of how long you'll be staying here. So they may be transients here for only a few months, or this may just be where their unit stays. In any case I don't expect to be here more than a couple of days or a week at most, before moving into a more permanent facility.

I had packed my clothing bag so my bedding was on top, and was able quickly to put sheets and a poncho liner on the bed, and my own little rug on the floor. :-) The showers and latrine are also the same as Korea - in trailer-like facilities outside the tents. I took a shower and brushed my teeth, which made me feel much better. Then I came back and put my iPod on Handel, put on my eyeshade (from the Korea flight), and lay down to sleep around 0330.

I awoke at about 1000. My roomates were gone, so I was obviously "out of it". I still felt tired (or at least lethargic) but I knew I should get up, so I did. The first thing I noticed was a temperature gradient in the tent. It's air conditioned, but when I sat up it was warmer by my head than my feet. The effect was even more pronounced when I stood up. that was my first indication of the battle with the heat. I had to go use the latrine, so I put on flipflops to go outside, and was completely blinded by the light and hit by the heat as I stepped outside. I couldn't even open my eyes for at least 30 seconds, and sort of squinted my way over there and back. It was a relief to get back in the tent.

I had some water, got dressed, and put my things away so they'd be secure while I took care of business. I kept out my Camelbak (also loaded on top of my field gear) and switched to my boonie cap for sun protection. I noticed a layer of dust on everything (including my teeth!) It's very fine, slightly gritty, and coats everything like a powder. My roommates had plastic bags over their pillows, and I followed suit, arranging my bed so none of the surfaces I sleep on are exposed. I found myself strangely reluctant to actually get up and out of the tent, almost as though inside was a kind of "safe zone". When I stepped outside, in uniform, I would be "really here". Or maybe I'm just jet lagged and tired.

Finally, armed with sunglasses, boonie hat, and CamelBak, I stepped outside. The sunglasses made all the difference and I was able to head for the dining facility almost immediately. The heat and light are both intense but manageable. I think I am very lucky to be coming here at this time of year, when the worst of the heat is over. (Last night sitting and waiting for our ride at about 0130 was really very pleasant, like a nice summer night with a cool breeze).

My first stop was a mailbox to mail the envelopes I couldn't send from the Atlanta airport. Then I went to the DFAC for lunch. I'd like to describe that experience, but the hour I paid for is nearly up, and I really ought to get to a phone and call my unit. They don't expect me to do much over the next couple of days, but I need to contact them and do some inprocessing.

So this is a good place to stop my first entry from "In Country". More later, as soon as I can get to it.

Finally! I Leave Tomorrow

Well, it's been an interesting, repetitive, and sometimes frustrating process, but I'm finally all done with the mobilization processing, and I have a seat on the plane for tomorrow (Wednesday Oct 11th).

Today was the last step - reporting back into to my unit. When I came up from Ft. Benning last week, everyone was already off for the long weekend, so I just had to cool my heels until today. So yesterday I did a load of laundry and put the finishing touches on packing. When I got up this morning to leave, I packed everything so that it could be picked up and taken to the airport if necessary. It turned out that I don't have a flight until tomorrow, so I'll open it up and live out of it in a sort of minimal way, then pack up again in the morning.

I finally met the people in my actual section today. Up until now I've been dealing with the augmentation company, but now that I'm finished processing in to the unit, I'm assigned to the STB (Special Troops Battalion). I will definitely be going over to be the facilities engineer for Camp Arifjan in Kuwait. The official title is FMO - Facilties Management Officer. Since I knew that was the most likely thing they had me slotted for, I've been joking with people that I'd be fixing air conditioning. Well, the first thing somebody asked me today was whether I was good at fixing A/C!!

I guess there are budget, manpower, and responsiveness issues with the contracted support services, so it's not uncommon to get out your toolbox and fix something yourself. I don't think that's what the Army has in mind for majors to be doing, but like Larry the Cable Guy says: "git'r'done!".

I met a number of people today, including my new commander. He seems like a pretty cool guy - I have an idea we'll get along well. There are lots of different kinds of officers that you run into - most are good, solid people, some are dumber than rocks (or just lazy), and some are really exceptional. I couldn't make that sort of judgment about him at this point, but it seems he's a thinker, and if pressed I'd put my money on his being in the latter category. We've read many of the same books, and he's even reviewed some of the ones I've read recently for military publications such as "Parameters" and "Military Review". He's also authored his own books, and seems to be a specialist in counterinsurgency warfare. He has a professional development reading list for his officers and conducts regular discussion sessions on the readings with them (us). So it seems we at least have similar views on professional development and that he takes the job seriously. I'm sure I can learn some things from him.

He told me that the major challenge I'll face is time and resource management. I'll be responsible for everything to do with the infrastructure on the base - contruction projects, maintenance, appearance (e.g. painting and cosmetic repairs as well as functional repairs), etc. They've had a number of people rotate through this position who have had varying levels of success. I gather that my management and people skills will be most relevant, and that my field gear will mostly just stay in the wall locker. So I will definitely be a rear-area pogue! On the whole, it seems like the sort of invisible, unglamorous, thankless rear-area job that nobody wants but somebody has to do to help keep things flowing forward into the fight.

I'll post more as I learn it, but what I know so far is that this is a (the?) major U.S. logistics support base in Kuwait. I was told that the facilities are starting to age a bit, and I already know the desert is a tough environment to operate in. Much of the equipment is nonstandard, which means people may or may not be trained on maintenance. I have no idea who does PMCS on it, but I'm guessing that gets short shrift when the choice is preventive maintenance versus fixing the broken stuff that somebody's complaining about *right now*. Just a guess, but I won't be surprised. And I can hardly wait to be responsible for having everything nicely painted when sandstorms can strip paint to bare metal in minutes. (!!)

I lucked out and got hooked up today with another major in our unit who's been over there for several years, in and out of various countries and assignments. He's on his way back to Kuwait, and we'll be traveling together. He knows his way around, and will make sure I get where I'm going with the least possible fuss and bother. He's assigned to one of the sections that has him traveling back and forth, so he has a room over there already and a lot of his stuff is there. My assignment is not like that - I'll be over there the whole time unless something changes radically.

I got really tired of chasing internet connections all over Atlanta, and last night I had an insight I wish I'd had earlier. I am only two train stops from the airport, but had been heading north into Atlanta instead. Today I came to the aiport. I'm sitting in a nice restaurant with a solid internet connection, and it's open 24/7 so I won't get kicked out - I can stay until I'm good and ready to leave!

The officer I met today told me that it's very feasible to just buy my own internet connection once I'm over there.The card costs about $250, and the service is about $30 per month. After what I went through at Ft. Benning and here, that sounds very reasonable. If nothing else, the time savings and convenience will be worth it - I am going to be very busy, and have a lot to do. Having a connection where and when I want it will be very valuable, and well worth the cost.
I managed to get an FM 5-34 (Engineer Field Data, also known as the "Woodchuck Manual") before I left Eighth Army. Today I went out and bought the other two indispensible tools of the Engineer Officer - a tape measure and a scientific calculator. I still have the same tape measure I carried in my ammo pouch as an Engineer lieutenant in Germany, but I didn't think of it before I left, and it's hanging on the pegboard over the workbench in my basement at home. I also left my HP12C at home, since I didn't think I'd need to calculate internal rates of return or net present values in combat. But my old scientific calculator bit the dust years ago, and I needed a replacement. Something with trig functions, at least. I wasn't happy with the selection, but I got a TI that will be OK for now. I may do some online shopping once I get over there - I really like the HP system of data entry (RPN), and I know my college roomate had an HP scientific calculator. They just don't stock them at the electronics stores, for some reason.

Now I'm just taking care of a few last-minute details and enjoying a few beers. No alcohol in theater (Islamic Law), so this is it for a year or more. I don't plan to get falling-down drunk, of course, but I'm glad it's a train ride back - I don't have to worry whether I'm legal to to drive or not. :-)

The next entry will likely be a few days from now. They tell me that from when we take off it will be about 48 hours before I'm in my assigned quarters. We fly to Kuwait through Europe, with a layover in either Ireland or Germany. Then once we get to Kuwait, it's about a 2 hour bus ride to the place where we inprocess, and then a 2 1/2 hour ride *back* to Camp Arefjan. (I asked why it is that we don't inprocess at Camp Arifjan, or at least closer to the airport, and the answer was "Don't go there..." - seems I touched a nerve). I'll more than likely spend the first night in temporary billets and get assigned permanent quarters the next day. I'll spend a few days getting oriented and learning the job from my predecessor, and then be off and running.

I'll get hooked into the internet as soon as I can, and the next entry here will be from "In Country".

Mood: Excited
Music: In Country - "Saigon Warrior"

Done!

Sunday 10/8/06

Done!

Well, close enough. This morning I got enough packing done to know that everything will fit in. I concentrated on the uniforms and soft stuff, since I did the field gear yesterday. One key decision was to leave all my civilian clothing behind. Even though they said I could take it, it felt kind of strange to be packing it when I know that it’s not authorized in Iraq and Afghanistan where the real war is. And when space became a consideration, that clinched it. I’ll send it all home and have it sent to me later if it turns out that I want it.

I replaced all my wool/nylon blend boot socks with the new 82% cotton knee-high boot socks. They issued us four pair of these, and after wearing them for two days I went and bought six more pair at clothing sales. It goes against my backpacking experience to wear such a high proportion of cotton on my feet, but they issued these for the desert and that’s where I’m going. The major benefit is that they extend above the boot tops and allow moisture to evaporate. I’m wearing the polypro liner socks I got at REI underneath them, so my feet are dry and friction-free. I stuck six pair of the wool blend socks into my cold-weather boots before I packed them. I figure if I need those boots, I’ll want the wool socks, and if for some reason the new ones start to bother me, I’ll have the old standby to fall back on.

So two duffel bags are completely packed and closed, and the one I have left is for odd-shaped stuff. It has my ALICE pack with frame, insect netting and poles, cold weather fleece jacket and pants (bulky), my two extra pair of boots (HW and CW), and enough room left over for the ash and trash that’s still floating around the room. I think tomorrow I will try to re-pack the footlocker to reduce the weight. Coming here it weighed 78 lb., 8 lb. over the limit, so I had to pay an extra charge. I don’t know if they will allow that option on an international flight, and I don’t want to pay it anyway. So I’ll try to find some dense heavy stuff I can take out and put in the remaining duffel bag.

I changed the title of yesterday’s second entry to “No More Panera Bread”, as I decided that “Please Boycott Panera Bread” sounded a little overwrought. But I was ticked off when I wrote it, and still am. I walked two miles and spent $3.50 and an hour on the train to get to their place to eat, drink, and use the internet, only to be blocked from the sites I wanted to use. So today I am at a Starbucks paying for access, and this is where I’ll come for internet access until I leave.

I was thinking on the way home last night that I am really sick of having to search for wi-fi hotspots to get on the internet. There must be a better way. I think I’ll look into the other wireless options that are emerging. I know that Sprint has a wireless card you can put into your PC that will get you high-speed access anywhere in their network, and I believe Verizon has something similar.

I have no idea if any of them will work in Kuwait, but if I can find some reliable, secure way to have my own internet connection I will do so. All this walking around and sitting in restaurants and coffee shops has really made me realize how nice it is to have a connection right where I am, when I want it. And if I’m going to finish CGSC/ILE while I’m over there, I have *got* to have a reliable, convenient connection.

For the rest of today I am going to sit here recording music and reading. I may even watch a movie or something.